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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, nestled high among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.